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This region is particularly strong in Salvadoran, Peruvian, Bolivian, Afghan, Ethiopian, Korean, Vietnamese, Indian, and now Chinese cuisines.

Remember, if you don't like these, you probably didn't follow my advice for what to order. Before giving you the encyclopedia, here are SOME PLACES YOU MUST TRY.

This feature focuses on places you might not already know, overlooking such notable (but known) restaurants as Panjshir, for Afghan food, Duangrat's (Thai), or the Vietnamese places at Eden Center (how can you pick just one? Baan Thai , 1326 14 th St., NW, Washington, 202-588-5889.

Special Introduction I am pleased to report that the Food Page of The Washington Post wrote up this guide in the summer of 2001. Here is another article, Chasing the Perfect Meal, from the Fairfax Connection, the spring of 2004.

I wish to offer thanks to all those who offered dining suggestions and evaluations (keep them coming! This has made the guide better, and longer, than before. We lag behind New York City and Los Angeles, but we vie with Chicago and the Bay Area for third place in the United States.

They don't have too many seats, they do lots of take out, and you can order in advance on line. But beware, it is not a totally salutary neighborhood. Also get one or two of the "Fuls," which are available for breakfast too. A strong restaurant on all dimensions and also extremely cheap. No reservations, so you must show up well before opening at or wait two hours to get in.